My flight out ofAtlanta was delayed a bit by mechanical problems but after about an hour delay we pushed back and took off. I watched Ted then laid down to sleep. Despite constant turbulence I think i got 3-4 hours of sleep before breakfast was served at 6am Nuremberg time. After landing it was pretty quick to get my bag and head to the train station. I had to catch a bus from the terminal where landed to the train station but that wasn't too hard. I recognized the escalator ride up fromthe street tothe train station from when I rode into the airport to go home last year. Walking thru the station made me realize that, despite trying to learn German during the last year, I am pretty clueless in the useful terms needed to get around a train station. The ads around the station were stillgibberish to me. Disheartening. I bought a cinnamon roll to carry me thru the two hour ride and went down to my train platform to catch the train.
And here's the sign for my train at 9:37am on Dec 24
15 mins later I was on board, in my reserved seat, and off for Nuremberg. A 2.25 hr train ride w only three stops. So efficient. I got off the train and figured everyone would want to see what i saw when i got off the train so i figured i would take a picture:
The hotel in Nuremberg was really close to the train station. Only 2 blocks. On my walk to the hotel i had to cross thru the wall that used to surround the city. The portion of the city that is inside the remains of the city wall is calked the old town, the portion outside the wall is called, surprisingly, the new town. A good bit of it still remains but the part i walked to get to the hotel was open but there was a cool turret or watchtower on the corner where i had to walk thru.
I got to the hotel a little after noon. Three hours before check in. So I dropped off my bags at the front desk along with 20 other bags and wandered the city. I wanted to hit three sights on my visit - the Nazi party rally grounds, the history museum, and the castle. Luckily everything was closed for Christmas eve so everything I visited had to be seen from the outside.
The first thing you notice about Nuremberg, other than the myriad churches, is the castle at the highest point of the town -- kaiser??? Most of the other sites in the town were on a straight line walk from the hotel to the castle so this was my route to see the castle.
It was a warm day, probably upper 40s. Thank goodness, I do not do well in the cold. But even at noon the sun was very low in the sky. Everywhere I have been in Europe over Xmas has had this issue -- it is so far north that it always seems like the sun is about to set. I need to get over here in July.
So I walk down the main drag through old town and immediately hit the Christkindelsmarkt (Christmas market). I have seen Christmas markets in other parts of Europe but this one is supposedly one of the best. There are different markets in different platz (plazas) around the town with the names in lights above each area. Theres even a kids christmas market (kindelchirstmasmarkt). And the town seemed into it - at noon there were huge crowds of people huddled around wooden shacks or outside of shops drinking muehlwein(?) from little ceramic mugs. It's a euro specialty - warm red wine with fruit? Whatever it is, people like drinking it at noon on a Monday. So people are standing around drinking this wine, or munching on some bratwurst, 4 to a person, about the size of your pinky and inside a little French bread type roll. The stands that weren't selling brats or hot wine were selling all kinds of little nick nacks - snow globes, trains, wooden doo hickeys, toys, etc. seemed like the whole town was out there. this is a little out of order but I was back wandering around the stands later in the day I noticed they were starting to break down certain booths. I was starving by this time so I stopped at the nearest brat stand. People are throwing down money and pulling sandwiches off the shelf in front of the grill. I step up and ask for one. And hand the lady an Australian coin to pay. This does not go over well. By the time I find a euro and pay there is one sandwich left. I take that sandwich and within seconds the window to the booth gets slammed shut. I got the last one! And thank goodness because it was 215 and the town was proceeding to shut down. Within 20 mins the whole old town was a ghost town and I would have had few choices of where to eat. Tumbleweeds. Loco.
These squares where the Christmas markets were set up are some of the famous places in town. Churches. Old fountains.
Past this first Christmas market was a bridge that over the Pegnitz river. To the right was a cool bldg over part of the river that was or is a mental hospital. Sweet!
I passed by the next Christmas market, moving super slow because it was freakin packed. I made my way through the crowd and trudged my way up the cobblestone streets up to the Kaiserburg castle. It's pretty impressive -- high on a hill, several towers, definitely old school. Built in days of yore, 15th century. There were a couple of spots to stand along a wall and look down and the city. And I did
This is what I looked like while looking down at the city w a crooked bill on my hat
I was getting closer to the 3pm check in and I really wanted to get in and get showered. But it was only about 2 so I wandered around the back side of the castle. Here it is:
It's hard to see but down below me along the walking path are little shacks dressed up like houses. no clue what goes on down there. Do people live there during the summer? Confused!
I then walked down below the castle but not the same way i came up. I followed the wall of the city around to the west, here's what the wall looked like along with a tower on it
I wandered the city streets some more to kill time. To the river. To a church. To another church. More churches on my left. On my right. Seemingly all around you. By the museum that was closed. I finally made it to 3and checked in. Cleaned up, went thru some emails and hit the street again by prob 4. By this time I guess it was time to go to church bc the town was awash in bells aringing. And people everywhere, this time instead of drinking hot wine they are hurriedly dunking into he numerous churches around old town. I didn't go in one bc a guy was working the door, I assume to keep gringos out.
I went back to the castle to check out the city after sunset, which happens at 420. After an 820 sunrise. 8 hrs of sunshine. Shoot me. On my walk I saw this famous resident of the Christkindelsmarkt - Rauschgoldengel. Legend has it that this golden angel, the Christtkind, gives kids presents at Christmas. She must help Santa. She is also very creepy, her she is chasing me down the back alleys of NurnbergL
Did some more wandering around but was starving again so I went to the one place where the lady from the front desk said would be serving food - the train station! But she was wrong. Nothing was open. So I went back to the area around the hotel to on of the kebab places. There were several of these near the hotel and they were all open. I got some noodles with doner meat (looked like chicken but was on a spit like you get gyro meat) and ate it in my hotel room. Nowhere to sit at this place, it was just open to the street. Classy!
After eating I watched some of the only channel in English -BBC World. Terrible. Same stories over and over. Have something new! So after muting that, watching some "usual suspects" on my computer, surfing the net, and emailing people, I crashed at 1030. Couldn't even make it to midnight on Christmas eve. I was dozing off at 9. Oh well. Last year I was at notre dame when it turned Xmas, this year I was asleep in Nuremberg.
See you tomorrow Nurenberg and Prague!
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